« Back to Glossary Index

knot that can be used to form a loop in the standing part of a line.

butterfly knot (Wikipedia)

The butterfly loop, also known as lineman's loop, butterfly knot, alpine butterfly knot, Swiss loop and lineman's rider, is a knot used to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. Tied in the bight, it can be made in a rope without access to either of the ends; this is a distinct advantage when working with long climbing ropes. The butterfly loop is an excellent mid-line rigging knot; it handles multi-directional loading well and has a symmetrical shape that makes it easy to inspect. In a climbing context it is also useful for traverse lines, some anchors, shortening rope slings, and for isolating damaged sections of rope.

Butterfly loop
A butterfly loop with a carabiner.
NamesButterfly loop, alpine butterfly knot, butterfly knot, lineman's loop, Swiss loop, lineman's rider
CategoryLoop
RelatedAlpine butterfly bend, farmer's loop, artillery loop, span loop
ReleasingNon-jamming
Typical useFixed loop on the bight. Isolating a worn section of rope.
ABoK#331, #532, #1053
Instructions[1]
« Back to Glossary Index